“Everyone remembers Genny as a discreet and sophisticated luxury brand known for its top craftsmanship and artisanal heritage so this first collection respects the house’s tradition. It is designed for working women with multi-occasion agendas that need functional and elegant clothes,” says Gabriele Colangelo.
New life is breathed into the sartorial suit – a Genny staple – thanks to new cuts on the jacket, made with plush men’s wear fabrics such as grisaille. They are paired with graphic blouses in cotton organdie, silk crepe de chine and muslins, featuring an ethnic-geometric motif.
Male and female, the two souls of the Genny world, come together with rigor and sensuality.
Innovative and exclusive materials developed by Colangelo include a silk and raffia blend that traces a zebra design and a trompe l’oeil print reminiscent of a Kilim carpet.
A dull gold jersey shell, instead, plays tribute to the silver mesh designed by Gianni Versace during his tenure at Genny from 1974 to the early Nineties.
Last but not least, Colangelo developed an ultra-light and summery version of Astrakhan fur with a zebra effect used for pencil skirts, coats, bags and shoes.
My favourite look is this royal blue tribal effect piece which moves away from the neutral tones of the rest of their pieces. The way the silk falls makes no secret of its luxuriousness and the double front; print and plain gives a nod to the colour blocking and prints that were everywhere at the shows this year.
SPRING / SUMMER 2012
For SS12 Holly Fulton has produced a collection for the lady that having blown her annual budget takes a vacation a little closer to home. In full holiday spirit and dressed for Vegas – she hits Margate. A keen eye on the arcades, indulging in the plethora of fruit machines and casinos, her handbag is decidedly ready to hoard any winnings. She frolics between gaudy neon lights and saccharine sands, asserting her right to be a bathing belle, and is not adverse to a donkey ride either.
This latest collection draws inspiration from Slim Aarons’ photographs of the US poolside scene from the late 1960s and 70s, the Albertus Seba Cabinet of Curiosities and Margate’s Deco Lido. Colour references echo soft, aged pastels inspired by 1980s pin ball machines, through to the vibrant-pop of Fiorucci fused with monochrome chessboards and checks. With a nod to signature Pucci and the decadence of early Versace circa 1990, prints are layered and embellished to create a look reminiscent of seaside souvenirs. Shell encrusted jewellery and bags, insets of shell laminate in a variety of plastics and Perspex blend to sit perfectly with Holly’s graphic aesthetic creating a visually striking yet harmonious collection. The resulting look is a hybrid Shelley Winters/C.Z.Guest decked out in head-to-toe nineties-esque Versace paired with excessive nautical jewellery and a hint of Sharon Stone in Scorsese’s Casino.
The collection is a joyous celebration of contemporary materials and design sprinkled with considerable frivolity and tongue in cheek elements. Signature cuts, considered placement and elaborate beading result in a striking and refreshing collection. All detailing executed with an air of luxury and consolidation of colour, forming the bold aesthetic with which the Holly Fulton label has become synonymous.